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Swedish Sausage: A Time Honored Tradition

The plate is gorgeous: a large section of a ring of boiled Swedish sausage, a pile of sautéed onions, whipped potatoes with a glob of butter, green beans and a healthy scoop of bright red Lingonberries.  Oh, yeah… and a dollop of Dijon mustard topped with horseradish just for the sausage.  Ooooooh boy – this is really livin’!

At a time when I assume that most of us are trying – often on vain – to implement that New Year’s Diet Plan that we swore to not so very long ago, and at the same time eyeing that next holiday and all its decadent pleasures that is just around the corner, I feel that I must share with you a tradition that has been part of my family’s Christmas celebrations since, well… “Hector was a pup”.  And that was long before I was but a twinkle in my father’s eye.  I know you gotta be wondering: “Why the Christmas story, after Christmas?”  … All in good time my pretty! 

Even though it is certainly not obvious from my name, my heritage is 50% Scandinavian – Norwegian to be exact.  And the tradition of which I speak involves the meal described above, typically taking place on Christmas Eve.  With the exception of the Lutefisk from the “original” dinner – enjoyed by my father, uncle and grandfather, yet some of the most foul-smelling and disgusting fish I have ever tried to eat – I still set aside an evening during the Christmas holiday for the Swedish sausage, freshly steamed veggies, mounds of mashed potatoes and piles of lightly sautéed and heavily buttered onions once enjoyed by the entire family.  For dessert, it was rice pudding.  The family was huge and, as we all sat around the table, tradition dictated that my grandmother – later my mother – put and almond in someone’s pudding.  The goal was to hide the fact that you had the almond until everyone was finished.  Upon displaying the almond, a prize was awarded for the almond’s owner.  Christmas was such a special time then… far less commercial than today and far more fun.

The dinner is a tradition that, partly in honor of my mother and father, and partly because it has become one of my favorite meals during the holidays, I will continue to embrace until the day that I take my last breath here and head for the shores of Valhalla.  And therein lies the rub.  No… not the Valhalla thing.  It’s about the sausage.  I cannot continue the tradition without the Swedish sausage.  Now, that may sound a bit silly, because of course the meal wouldn’t be the same without the sausage.  And everyone knows that Swedish sausage can be obtained just about anywhere.  Ahhhh, but that’s where you would be wrong!  I’m talking about real Swedish sausage – not the stuff found at the supermarket chains – made by a real Swede.  Back in the 1950’s and ’60’s, my grandmother most likely bought it at one of the small, local butcher shops that have disappeared like Sammy Sosa from Wrigley Field during a Cubs game.  There were a couple of markets in St. Charles (DeBates' in the downtown area and another – I believe called The Locker - located out on west Main Street), a few in Geneva (Johnson’s Royal Blue on the far west end – 7th Street I believe – and another one or two markets in downtown Geneva – Larson’s IGA and the Central Market).  There was also one in Batavia… I believe it was called Gricunas’s.  My mother, following in her mother’s footsteps, frequented many of these same markets in search of the best Christmas Eve dinner sausage.

This may all be quite boring to you.  But the guys at those markets could make sausage like nobody’s business!  I am afraid that, as we have lost those shops and the “old timers” who took pride in their work, we have lost something that will never again be enjoyed by those of you who appreciate really good food.  I for one, appreciate – no, cherish – recipes that have been handed down through the generations. My grandmother, and later all of her children, have purchased their Christmas Swedish sausage from those local butchers until, one by one, the stores vanished – forced out by the big “superstores.”  Well sir, I finally arrive at the point of my story.  Just last week, I finished my last ring of Swedish sausage that comes from a recipe that has been handed down in just the way that I described.  You see, I get my sausage from the son of a man who owned one of those markets that used to exist here in the Fox Valley.  My friend uses the time-honored recipe that his grandmother handed down to his father, who in turn handed it down to him… and he will eventually hand it down to his son.  That’s at least four generations.  And I promise that it is some of the most kick-butt sausage that you will ever taste.  He has always made it in fairly small batches and I have gotten some from him every year for the last… well, at least 20 or more years.

I am trying to convince my “source” that he should revive the original market… or at least make available his father’s championship sausage to more people so that they too can enjoy a great holiday tradition.  And that’s why I am sharing this story with you now.  My friend needs some time to think about my idea.  And he would obviously need to know what kind of a demand, if any, exists.  So I ask for a small favor from you, my readers.  If you would perhaps be interested in obtaining for your next year’s holiday celebration some of the best Swedish sausage you ever had the pleasure of eating, please drop me an email, and we’ll go from there. 

As always... If you have questions or comments, contact me at: Reviews@RalphPancetta.com


Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

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