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Swedish Sausage: A Time Honored
Tradition
The plate is
gorgeous: a large section of a ring of boiled Swedish sausage, a pile of
sautéed onions, whipped potatoes with a glob of butter, green beans and a
healthy scoop of bright red Lingonberries.
Oh, yeah… and a dollop of Dijon mustard topped with horseradish just for the
sausage. Ooooooh boy – this is really livin’!
At a time when I assume that most of us are trying – often on vain – to implement that New
Year’s Diet Plan that we swore to not so very long ago, and at the same time
eyeing that next holiday and all its decadent pleasures that is just around
the corner, I feel that I must share with you a tradition that has been part
of my family’s Christmas celebrations since, well… “Hector was a pup”. And
that was long before I was but a twinkle in my father’s eye. I know you
gotta be wondering: “Why the Christmas story, after
Christmas?” … All in good time my pretty!
Even though it is certainly not obvious from my name, my heritage is 50% Scandinavian –
Norwegian to be exact. And the tradition of which I speak involves the meal
described above, typically taking place on Christmas Eve. With the
exception of the Lutefisk from the “original” dinner – enjoyed by my father,
uncle and grandfather, yet some of the most foul-smelling and disgusting
fish I have ever tried to eat – I still set aside an evening during the
Christmas holiday for the Swedish sausage, freshly steamed veggies, mounds
of mashed potatoes and piles of lightly sautéed and heavily buttered onions
once enjoyed by the entire family. For dessert, it was rice pudding. The
family was huge and, as we all sat around the table, tradition dictated that
my grandmother – later my mother – put and almond in someone’s pudding. The
goal was to hide the fact that you had the almond until everyone was
finished. Upon displaying the almond, a prize was awarded for the almond’s
owner. Christmas was such a special time then… far less commercial than
today and far more fun.
The dinner is a tradition that, partly in honor of my mother and father, and partly because
it has become one of my favorite meals during the holidays, I will continue
to embrace until the day that I take my last breath here and head for the
shores of Valhalla. And therein lies the rub. No… not the Valhalla thing.
It’s about the sausage. I cannot continue the tradition without the Swedish
sausage. Now, that may sound a bit silly, because of course the meal
wouldn’t be the same without the sausage. And everyone knows that Swedish
sausage can be obtained just about anywhere. Ahhhh, but that’s where you
would be wrong! I’m talking about real Swedish sausage – not
the stuff found at the supermarket chains – made by a real Swede. Back in
the 1950’s and ’60’s, my grandmother most likely bought it at one of the
small, local butcher shops that have disappeared like Sammy Sosa from
Wrigley Field during a Cubs game. There were a couple of markets in St.
Charles (DeBates' in the downtown area and another – I believe called The
Locker - located out on west Main Street), a few in Geneva (Johnson’s Royal
Blue on the far west end – 7th Street I believe – and another one
or two markets in downtown Geneva – Larson’s IGA and the Central Market).
There was also one in Batavia… I believe it was called Gricunas’s. My
mother, following in her mother’s footsteps, frequented many of these same
markets in search of the best Christmas Eve dinner sausage.
This may all be quite boring to you. But the guys at those markets could make sausage like
nobody’s business! I am afraid that, as we have lost those shops and the
“old timers” who took pride in their work, we have lost something that will
never again be enjoyed by those of you who appreciate really good food. I
for one, appreciate – no, cherish – recipes that have been handed down
through the generations. My grandmother, and later all of her children, have
purchased their Christmas Swedish sausage from those local butchers until,
one by one, the stores vanished – forced out by the big “superstores.” Well
sir, I finally arrive at the point of my story. Just last week, I finished
my last ring of Swedish sausage that comes from a recipe that has been
handed down in just the way that I described. You see, I get my sausage
from the son of a man who owned one of those markets that used to exist here
in the Fox Valley. My friend uses the time-honored recipe that his grandmother
handed down to his father, who in turn handed it down to him… and he will eventually
hand it down to his son. That’s at least four generations. And I
promise that it is some of the most kick-butt sausage that you will ever
taste. He has always made it in fairly small batches and I have gotten some
from him every year for the last… well, at least 20 or more years.
I am trying to convince my “source” that he should revive the original market… or at least
make available his father’s championship sausage to more people so that they
too can enjoy a great holiday tradition. And that’s why I am sharing this story
with you now. My friend needs some time to think about my idea. And he
would obviously need to know what kind of a demand, if any, exists. So I
ask for a small favor from you, my readers. If you would perhaps be
interested in obtaining for your next year’s holiday celebration some of the best
Swedish sausage you ever had the pleasure of eating, please
drop me an email,
and we’ll go from there.
As always... If you have questions or comments,
contact me at:
Reviews@RalphPancetta.com.
Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
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