More Chefs

On the eve of my annual vacation to northern Minnesota, I received news that would trouble me for the next two weeks… and beyond.  I was informed that Joel Findlay – owner and head chef of 302 West restaurant in Geneva had passed away.  I am not normally a very public kind of person when it comes to matters such as these, but with two weeks of “down time” in the seclusion of 25,000 acres of crystal clear water and clean fresh air, I had plenty of time to think about the tragic passing of Chef Joel.  I wanted to share some thoughts with readers of On the Fox.

I remember the first time that I walked through the doors of what was then a restaurant called The Safe.  The State Bank of Geneva, at 302 West State Street, had been converted into a restaurant and the result was nothing short of a disaster.  It was a perfect example of how someone with perfectly good intentions can really make significant mistakes.  I am reminded of a line from Jurassic Park: “We spared no expense here.”  It was true.  The reminders were everywhere.  Unfortunately, the food and atmosphere – including a salad bar in the old bank vault – did not come remotely close to the expense spent on the rest of the place and The Safe fell flat on its expensive face.

Enter Joel and Catherine  Findlay.  Joel was reminiscent of an Italian chef I once worked for on the west coast.  I have mentioned the name of Joseph Insalago in numerous reviews that I have penned.  In fact, every time I prepare a particular dish inspired by Joseph – Smallmouth Bass Veronique – I raise a glass to the memory of Joseph, one of the greatest chefs I ever met.  Joseph had a flair for food preparation and his presentation was never anything less than exquisite.  He used to tell the wait staff that: “it was not his way that things were to be done, it was the way.”  I had the pleasure of once meeting Joel Findlay for a few brief moments in his kitchen.  He had that same zeal I had witnessed on the west coast and he formed the lasting impression of a man dedicated to the art of food preparation and presentation that I shall not forget.  Whether it was some sort of fresh marine fish delicately encrusted in pecan flour, a seafood tamale, a flourless double chocolate cake or… well, I am at a loss to remember the hundreds of different menu items exquisitely described by Catherine  and lovingly, expertly prepared by Joel, the results were always indescribably delicious.  There were several creations I learned to mimic – including the ambrosia-like roasted garlic and the most incredible signature finish at the restaurant: 302 coffee – and I have shared them with countless friends.   

The accoutrements in the restaurant were all Catherine , as were the menu descriptions.  She too had a flair for the possibilities gourmand, and the menus – new and different every day – were enough to make one drool just reading them.  Between the menu descriptions and Joel’s food preparation, the magic was endless.  I remember too, the first time that I re-entered the building, now called 302 West, for dinner.  I had made no reservations, it was a Friday night and the place was all but deserted.  The tables had their distinctive fresh flowers and white tablecloths and the wait staff was very professional looking, dressed in white shirts and black trousers.  The only dish that I remember from the evening was the roasted garlic, but the entire meal was fabulous.  It was clear by the end of the evening that Joel and Catherine  had very expertly and thoroughly put all the proverbial ducks in a very fine row.

And so it was, over the years.  I could afford to visit 302 West on few occasions annually.  Soon, reservations were a necessity on any night.  But the food, the service, the smiles from Catherine , the ambience – the entire experience – on every occasion, was about as flawless as one could expect.  302 West set the original standard in the Fox Valley for fine dining.  It has been reviewed on numerous occasions by restaurant critics with far more credentials than I might ever hope to achieve.  These reviews have circulated as far west as California.  The Findlays have done much for the area and we are to be grateful.

As I sit and gaze out across the immense expanse of water, I am unsure as to what will happen next at 302 West State Street in Geneva.  Although I was a not personal or social friend of either Joel or Catherine , I was always made to feel very much like one of the 302 West Family every time I walked through the door.  I am deeply saddened by the tragic news.  I will truly miss Joel and his inspiration; I know that he brought great joy to many a diner.  My heartfelt sympathies go out to Catherine .  I am not sure what is appropriate to say to her, and I cannot begin to imagine the magnitude of her sorrow.  My hope is that this tribute will, in some small way, help.  On the way north, we made an unscheduled stop in a Duluth liquor store and bought some special ingredients.  Tonight, after a special dinner, I will use those ingredients to prepare one of my favorite after dinner drinks: 302 Coffee.  We will raise our glasses high and bid adieu to a great man and great chef.

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com