O'Brien's Pub & Grill Restaurant
Review
There is a small place in Batavia – just across the river and north of
Wilson Street – that, at one time, had some very decent food. It has
changed hands several times and the food has never been the same. Another
new owner has taken over, and I stopped by last summer for a beer and to
check out a local band that was playing there outside. At that time, I had
made up my mind to try the place for dinner some time. Since St. Patrick’s
Day is just around the corner, and the place has an Irish name, Lauren and I
decided that it might be a good time to sample the menu.
O’Brien’s Pub and Grill is a rather smallish place in an old building that
has been around for as long as Batavia – maybe even longer. The period
limestone walls are evident and the rich old mahogany bar speaks volumes
about a time long past. It’s very cozy inside, with a half-dozen tall bar
tables against the wall opposite the long bar. The bar area was not very
populated, but we still asked to be seated in the no-smoking section, and
were led to a small adjoining room, where I noted about a dozen tables –
only 2 of which were occupied.
The tables were covered with a blue, gingham-checked plastic cloth, and
there were four small appetizer plates with napkin-wrapped silverware at the
corners. A lit candle was placed at the center. The walls were a
reddish-maroon color and there was a sort of drop ceiling with some
acoustical material that really helped what must have once been a very noisy
room. The lighting was warm and inviting. We were seated at a 4-top, and
were almost immediately approached by a waitress who poured a large glass of
water and asked if we would like something to drink… to which I instantly
responded, yes! (We had put in a long day and were ready to reward
ourselves)
The menu was simple, containing a few appetizers, a numbers of sandwiches,
salads and about ten entrees. The hummus app really stood out – I don’t
recall seeing it on any menus around here – and I wish we would have had a
bigger appetite. We both would have ordered it. As it was, Lauren opted
for the Fish and Chips ($8.95) and I decided to try the O’Brien’s Lamb Stew
($10.95; “savory leg of lamb, carrots, potato, celery and onions in a
rosemary sauce, potato crust”). The fish and chips came with 3 large
pieces of deep-fried haddock – fried in a Harp’s beer batter – a dish of
cole slaw, tartar sauce and fries. Lauren really liked the fish, but
mentioned that the oil may have been a bit on the “tired” side; it had left
a bit of an unpleasant aftertaste. My stew was excellent. The lamb had a
very good flavor and there was just enough rosemary to flavor the dish
without overpowering it. The potato crust was piped on top and the stew
inside was steaming hot. I ate every bit.
I
don’t know how Irish O’Brien’s Pub and Grill wants to be, but the menu has a
number of Irish dishes – including Shepherd’s Pie and the classic Reuben.
The menu also includes ten great sounding sandwiches, each named after one
of the ten brothers in the O’Brien clan. If I can judge the rest of the
menu by what we had, I must say that O’Brien’s Pub and Grill has the recipe
for a winner. As we left, I noticed that the bar had filled and a couple of
other diner tables were occupied as well. But I remain surprised at the
number of vacant tables I observed on a Saturday night. I hope that part
changes. But keep puttin’ out the good food… and don’t change the Lamb
Stew!
There is joy to be had in B’Ville… the mighty Casey has not
struck out. In fact, he’s got himself a hit. Just how far the ball carries
remains to be seen. But considering the very good service, the food quality
and price and the overall experience that Lauren and I just had, Casey just
might “go yard” with this one. I give O’Brien’s Pub and Grill 3 ½ Zins and
recommend that you give it a try – on St. Patrick’s Day… or any other!

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
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