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Swordfish Restaurant Review

At the very least, Swordfish –
contemporary sushi – is a feather in Batavia’s restaurant hat. But that
statement is somewhat misleading, since Batavia’s restaurant hat is, at
least at this point, relatively featherless… and the statement does
absolutely no justice to what both Lauren and I believe to be a simply
marvelous sushi dining experience. We have eaten at a total of seven
different sushi venues in 4 different states in the past four years, and I
personally thought that perhaps we had seen some of the best. But I was
very, very wrong.
Let me first state that Swordfish is
very different from any of the other sushi restaurants at which we have had
the pleasure of dining. The slogan that accompanies Swordfish is
“contemporary sushi”, but even that is insufficient to accurately describe
the place. I can perhaps best portray the restaurant as something of a
Sushi-302, because it seems almost like a fusion of sushi with one of my
favorite restaurants in Geneva. The reason for this comes not only from the
feel or the ambience one experiences upon entering – the walls are a mixture
of bright, yet calming colors and the music is something of a new age, light
jazz – it comes as much or more from the expert chefs behind the sushi bar
and certainly from the incredible and masterful presentation of the plates
that are placed before you. They seem almost too aesthetic and eye
appealing to consume.
Swordfish has been open for several
months and I have been yearning to give it a try. So, on a cool and cloudy
October night, the time seemed just right to stop in. It was another
Tuesday night and the parking lot was virtually empty. This, as we have
seen before, is often a red flag. Upon entering, we found ourselves to be
the only two in the place; although I must admit that we were bordering on
being classed as “early diners” (it was only 6:30). There were two chefs
(later that number increased to three) behind the sushi bar, which is where
we decided to sit; a waitress immediately approached us, presented us with
drink and dinner menus, and asked if we would like something from the bar.
Lauren asked for a large, hot sake and I requested a “box” of cold,
Namahage (a “rich, complex flavor, extremely dry” sake). It actually
came in a small square box! As we sipped our respective sake beverages, we
tried to decide what to order. The numerous choices and descriptions on the
menu made that part difficult, but we ultimately settled on two items from
the sushi bar: Dynamite ($9) consisted of “sushi rice wrapped with
fresh salmon and topped with seasoned spicy scallop”, and Assorted Tuna
Sashimi ($15) – which was “a taste of all different tuna available.” We
also decided to try something called Crunch ($12) – a maki (sushi
roll) that consisted of pieces of shrimp tempura with asparagus.
As I recall, the Dynamite came out first
and I can only recall thinking that it was way too beautiful to eat… but eat
it we did. There were three exquisitely prepared pieces of salmon
surrounding the sushi rice, with just a touch of heat – which I assumed to
be the “spicy scallop.” There was also a roll of Japanese radish wrapped
around a neat little bundle of greens that were ever-so-tasty morsels. I
had been watching one of the chefs preparing a marvelous plate of sashimi,
complete with a fan of Fuji apples, a carrot sculpted into the shape of a
butterfly and a huge pile of “spaghetti” that was really Japanese radishes
in long strands. As it turned out, the plate was for us – our Assorted Tuna
Sashimi – and it came with a small candle to illuminate the entire affair.
There were three different types of tuna: white, tuna, yellowtail tuna and
Ahi tuna. All three had their own delicate textures and flavors and all
three were excellent. Our finishing piece that evening was the Crunch and
it too was expertly prepared and presented.
Lauren and I were both very impressed,
not just by the presentations, but by the quality and the flavors of the
fish as well. And the sauces… well, they were simply to die for. It was
slow in the restaurant that night (hard to believe…), and the waitress
hovered a bit more than we would have liked. But the overall experience was
definitely one that I will want to repeat. Besides, there are another 40-50
items on the menu that we still want to try! If you are looking to “dial it
up a notch” and are not afraid of the higher prices that swordfish charges,
I’m betting that you will really enjoy this – pardon the pun – Dynamite bit
of sushi heaven found in Batavia. I give Swordfish Four Zins and definitely
recommend that you put it at the top of your list of places to try!

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
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