Dine
Restaurant Review
 Last
December, I had an opportunity to visit the opening of a very slick venue in
downtown Chicago – a place called
Dine Restaurant. I was quite impressed by
the entire evening. There were the endless miniature hors d’oeuvres and
individual desserts, the crowds of people, special martinis and even some
not-bad look-alikes of the Rat Pack, singing some very good covers of their
songs… even some little take-home bags with favors inside. But what
impressed me the most were the incredible flavors that Lauren and I sampled
that evening. It was certainly not something that I expected, especially in
a restaurant located in a hotel. You see, Dine resides in the
Crowne Plaza Hotel Chicago-Metro on Madison Street, just a few blocks from the train station (Ogilvie
Transportation Center). I promised myself then that I would return for
dinner.
A couple of weeks ago, I finally took some time to make good on my promise.
Lauren and I chose to ride the train in to the city – what a marvelously
easy way to go to dinner – and hailed a cab for the short ride to Dine
(probably one of the scariest rides I have had since my first trip to Great
America and the Shock Wave rollercoaster…). It was about 6:15 on a Friday night and it
seemed as if as many people were exiting the city as were headed in. Within
minutes we were seated in comfortable leather armchairs, sipping a cocktail,
taking in the decor and enjoying each other’s company after a long and
difficult week. The place seems a mix of what Lauren called Metro Retro
(actually Dine's website calls it "1940's style") – the ceiling partially tiled
with chrome (instead of tin) squares reminiscent of the early years of the
twentieth century, the walls sporting some nifty printed art, antiqued
glass, a very cool zinc bar, upholstered Bentwood dining chairs and warm,
soothing light bathing the place. Except for the bar, Dine was not very busy
at that point, and I wondered just how popular the place was. In my
experience, restaurants within the confines of a hotel are generally not all
that good. But Karma
(in Mundelein) had definitely proven me wrong and I was to shortly learn
that Dine also had much to brag about.
We were seated at a table next to a window that faced north, and as we
looked out, another rain shower had begun to dampen the streets of Chicago.
We were warm and dry, and Lauren’s champagne and my Grey Goose – along with
a great anticipation – were cause for much content here inside Dine and
we were oblivious to the rat race outside. One look at the menu told us that little
had changed since last December. There was a new head chef, but the menu
contained many of the same mouth-watering items that I remembered.
One of the tastiest and well-prepared appetizers from the opening night was
still on the menu (Sesame Tuna and Salmon Tartar, tonight served with Wasabi
Tobiko Caviar, Chive Oil and Mandarin Orange Soy Reduction), and it took but
a heartbeat to put it at the top of our list of “must have some of this
tonight!” We struggled a bit on a second appetizer – try choosing from a
list with the likes of Skillet Roasted Saffron Mussels, Ginger Lump Crab
Cakes, Bruschetta with Cannellini Beans or Sugarcane Skewered Shrimp
Brochette – but finally settled on the Ginger Lump Crab Cakes with Jalapeno
Cilantro Cream Tamari Orange Syrup and Mango Papaya Relish. Dinner was quite
another matter. In the meat department, the Grilled Charred Rack of Lamb,
the Red Wine Braised Short Ribs, as well as the Fillet of Beef Tenderloin
tempted me. On the
 seafood side, there was grilled Ahi Tuna, Pan Roasted
Cod, Seared Salmon and Asparagus and Wild Mushroom Linguine. There were also
a number of comfort foods that would be really great on cold fall evenings…
like Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Dine’s Homemade Meatloaf, Lemon Sage Amish
Chicken or even the Macaroni ‘n’ Cheese, “Dine Style”. There was even a
great selection of sandwiches. But tonight the Pan Roasted Cod with Black
Mussels, Spanish Chorizo and Citrus Fennel Broth was an item that I simply
couldn’t pass up. Lauren decided to have a double-tuna kind of night and
selected the Grilled Ahi Tuna, served with French Horn Mushroom Risotto,
Artichoke Salad and Herbed Vinaigrette.
I splurged with a second Grey Goose and it arrived just as the ap’s were
delivered. The Sesame Tuna and Salmon Tartar was an absolute joy to behold:
a tightly packed mass of deep plum-colored tuna, interlaced with the orange
of the salmon and pinned in place by an arc of Mandarin Soy Reduction… more
than an inch thick, it was ambrosia! But
even more joyous to savor was the effect on my palate. My suggestion
would be to make available a larger portion as an entrée. It is simply that
good – even better than I remembered. The Crab Cakes were excellent too – a
pair of delicately sautéed, crispy on the outside and steamy on the inside
morsels with a perfect blend of accompaniments. We had decided to split a
Caesar Salad with Pancetta; it consisted of Baby Romaine, Brioche Crouton
and White Anchovy Dressing (which was slightly different from the usual);
this Caesar was excellent!
The entrees were no different from anything else thus far in terms of
flavors. The tuna was done perfectly and was sliced almost like a loaf of
bread, its pieces fallen like dominos served with rich and creamy - and
excellent - French Horn Mushroom
Risotto. The cod, mussels and chorizo
were perfect partners; the white and solid but flaky fish, surrounded by a
moat of citrus fennel both and paired with slices of spicy chorizo, was
outstanding. The plating was simple, austere and complimentary of the food;
the flavors were complimentary too. Oh, I almost forgot… Lauren selected a glass
of Hess Estate Chardonnay to enjoy with her dinner. After tasting it, I
decided to order a glass as well. It was liquid gold, thick and buttery with
a hint of oak, and a perfect compliment to our dinners
 My system was reaching the “full” point on the meter, but our friendly and
smiling waiter managed to talk us into dessert. There were some awesome
choices, like Gracie’s Red Velvet Cake (Dine’s Signature Dessert for Two),
Key Lime Cheesecake (my favorite) and Trio of “Malteds” just to mention a
few. The Banana Crème Pie however, is what caught Lauren’s after-dinner eye:
Caramelized Banana Mousse, Macadamia Nut Crust, Caramel Whipped Cream and
Chocolate Sauce. Oh…my…golly-gee-willickers was that an incredible way to
finish a meal! This was all while I indulged in a lusciously
creamy-smooth and steaming cappuccino. Mmmmmm!
As we were finishing up, I noticed that the restaurant was filling up with
diners. I was happy to see that. I am unsure as to what kind of reputation
that Dine has in the city… or beyond for that matter. But I would strongly
urge you to go there for dinner… or even for just an appetizer and cocktail.
It is a great and friendly venue that has an excellent and eclectic menu
chock-full of tasty items. It is conveniently located, staffed with friendly
and professional employees, and easily allows you to feel comfortable and
relaxed. Even with cocktails, wine, entrees and desserts, dinner for two can
be had for about $50 per person.
We skipped the cab on our way back to the train. Instead we enjoyed one of
the last warm evenings that the city might offer and discussed our evening
as we strolled back to the train station. Hats off to Dine, Chef Christopher
Turano, Pastry Chef Kate Milahus and all the other employees for making our
evening one to remember. I give Dine 4 solid Zins and recommend that you head to
the
Crowne Plaza Hotel Chicago-Metro
on East Madison Street in Chicago for dinner.. or lunch, or
even breakfast. Take the
train from the ‘burbs and leave the driving to Metra!
Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
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