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When I first spoke the name aloud, it sounded a bit reminiscent of the command necessary to beam a Klingon back aboard his spaceship. But although the name may have sounded strange, dinner at Shochu (Pronounced Show-chew) turned out to be one of the most gastronomically rewarding evenings I have experienced in quite some time. I had the good fortune of journeying – well… the journey itself may not have been very rewarding; the traffic from the suburbs to the City was absolutely abominable – to what has been described as the first American Shochu lounge. Located at 3313 N. Clark Street in the Lakeview area, Shochu may be smallish in size – seating perhaps 60-70 patrons – and although it features “Asian-edged small plates”, there is nothing small about the flavors offered by Executive Chef and partner Josh Hansen on an incredibly varied and interesting menu.

Shochu is actually a Japanese distilled spirit that is somewhat similar to vodka.  Made from a variety of ingredients (specifically barley, rice… even sweet potatoes or black sugar!), the results of the distillation are a drink that is perhaps akin to Saki, but with a slightly higher alcohol content and the ability to be combined with a plethora of other distilled spirits and juices.  It has but 1/3 the calories of vodka and is proclaimed to not give you a hangover (this the apparent result of the unique way it is metabolized).  I sampled three different kinds (Black Warrior  -- made with barley, Kuro Isanishiki -- made with sweet potato, and Gankutsuoh -- made with rice) without any accoutrements, and I can easily provide testimony as to the variety of flavors and an immediate liking for the beverage.  Lauren tried a Gengis Khan (rice shochu, sake, triple sec, lime juice and sour mix) and loved it – said it tasted like a Japanese margarita…  She also tasted a Red Dragon (also rice shochu, but with pomegranate, triple sec, sweet & sour and lime juice) and instantly proclaimed that the drink was the way a real cosmopolitan should taste!  Hey vodka… move way over!

The menu has five different sections: (1) Curry items (lobster, shrimp and duck) on creamy jasmine rice, (2) And Then… (sort of an appetizer section with Kobe beef, tuna, octopus, quail and lamb), (3) Oh Baby I Like It Raw (mostly salad items, featuring oysters, Kobe tartare, Ono, tuna, kampachi tartare and lamb tartare), (4) Yakitori (grilled selections from octopus to sausage to quail to pork, chicken and more…) and (5) Kara-Age (delicately fried items like ginger shochu glaze chicken wings, sesame tempura, bacon-wrapped dates and Tonkatsu, which is a breaded pork tenderloin).  The great thing about the Yakitori and Kara-Age sections is that if you get two or more items from those sections, a septet of sauces (Wasabi Avocado Mayo, Blueberry Teriyaki, Sansho Bokoujou, Sweet Thai Chili, Persimmon Hoisin, Miso Lychee Aioli and White Soy Dijon Vinaigrette) accompanies your selections.  And I have to tell you that the sauces alone are to die for.  Who would have ever thought that blueberry teriyaki would even work, let alone be so incredibly delicate and tasty?!

Yellow curry lobster and fennel stew, Blueberry teriyaki quail with quinoa spaetzle, miso lychee aioli and black sesame seeds, Yeocomico river Oysters with sweet ginger vinegar and tobikko, Kampachi tartare with piquillo peppers, fresh basil, capers and purple potato chips, Octopus shitaki and Sesame tempura eggplant and maitaki were our choices for the evening… difficult as it was to decide.  And the octopus shitaki and tempura qualified us for the Seven Sauces mentioned above.  The small plate thing made it seem almost like Japanese tapas; it also made sharing easy and lots of fun.  The flavors were incredible: exquisite lobster curry, succulent oysters -- some of the best I have ever tasted, hot and crispy tempura, elegant and tender quail and simply divine Kampachi tartare.  As if that were not enough – and apparently it wasn’t – we also decided to try some Ono Maki rolls… and topped everything off with a Green Tea Cheesecake for dessert. 

Owners Lynne Wallack and John Handler (the same dynamic duo that have brought eclectic American cuisine to Deleece – 4004 N. Southport, also in Lakeview – since 1995) have another winner in first-of-its-kind Shochu.  The décor is contemporary yet comfortable; black slate accents are found at the bar, fireplace, and throughout the restaurant, nicely accompanying the black oak dining tables. High ceilings provide an open, airy ambience, and exposed brick walls give the restaurant an earthy and genuine feel.  The wait staff is highly knowledgeable and service was perfect.  Not only has Chef Hansen done a marvelous job with the menu, his artistic plating further enhances the eye-appealing items one is about to consume.  The prices are very reasonable… although if you bring a hunger like the ones Lauren and I brought, be aware that it is easy to run up the tab.  But I know that you will leave Shochu with a smile on your face, and so I highly recommend that you make the effort to pay them a visit – soon!  Parking space is limited but valet service is available… enjoy!     

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com