|






More Chicago Reviews








More Illinois Reviews































|
Venus
Greek-Cypriot
Restaurant Review
The other night at dinner, I amazed even
myself when I had to admit that the closest I had come to eating Greek food
was the Feta cheese that I put on my salads. Boy, was I in for a
surprise... and a real treat. I had the opportunity to dine at a small
place called Venus Greek-Cypriot Cuisine, just off of Halsted Street in the
heart of Greek Town. Actually it is not all that small - the dining
room will comfortably seat about 150 diners in an area that feels very much
Mediterranean, especially when one considers the bar that looks like part of
an ancient Greek warship, the green shutters on the windows and the plants
that warm the room.
There was a comfortable and inviting feel to the
restaurant from the moment Lauren and I entered, greeted by a stone statue
of Venus (or was it Aphrodite?) and welcomed by co-owner Costas Stylianou.
Venus of course is the Latin name given to Aphrodite - the Greek goddess of
love and beauty - born of the foam of the ocean, stepping ashore on Cyprus,
making Cyprus Aphrodite's birthplace. Judging from the flavors I
tasted, Venus Greek-Cypriot Cuisine is thus aptly named.
Lauren and I took the 4:37pm train from
the suburbs, arriving in Chicago at about 5:50pm. Although the air was
brisk and the breeze carried a damp chill from Lake Michigan, we decided to
walk the approximately 7 or 8 blocks to the restaurant. Surprisingly,
it took less than 15 minutes to cover the distance. The venue is on
the north side of Jackson, only a short half-block east of Halsted, but if
you have never been there before or you are not sure where it is, the place
would be easy to miss. And that is really too bad, because this is one
place that you should really not miss. On this particular
evening we were fortunate to have been able to sit for awhile with the other
co-owner, Gina Karatasios. I say this because not only did she suggest
for us some of her favorite menu selections, she also shared with us some of
her incredible knowledge of the history of Greece and Cyprus and also much
about how not only the foods themselves but the style of cooking came to
this country. I could have listened for hours. You however, are
probably more interested in the foods... I understand.
Of course, there are similarities to
what might be called "standard" Greek cuisine, but due to Cyprus's proximity
to Greece and also to Turkey, Syria and Lebanon, there is a very distinct influence -- in terms
of both culture and flavor -- from the Middle Eastern countries. I had
once thought that Greek food was extremely heavy on olive oil and garlic...
Keep in mind that (1) this is not solely Greek and (2) the seasonings and
flavors were certainly not heavy on either olive oil or garlic; they had
nuances of cinnamon, coriander and other spices. And they were much
more subtle and vastly different from anything that I have ever tasted.
There is no way that I could hope to pronounce the dishes that we tasted,
but for those of you who are of Greek/Middle Eastern heritage... I am
certain that you will know well both the names and flavors. There are
over two dozen appetizers - both cold and hot - from which to choose.
We tried a combo plate of spreads consisting of Talatouri, Hummus,
Taramosalata and Melitzanosalata (in English: fish roe, hummus, eggplant and
yogurt with mint) and pita on which to eat them . They were all
exquisite; my favorite was the fish roe. We also tried saganaki
Halloumi: Baked and imported Cypriot cheese (far superior to the "opah!"
flaming stuff of lesser venues), Octapodi sti Shara: Grilled Baby Octopus
with Balsamic vinegar, and Koupepia: Vine leaves stuffed with ground pork
and rice and served with yogurt. We also sampled a traditional Greek
salad called Elliniki, loaded with fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, green
peppers and Feta cheese (I at least recognized the cheese!).

There was a marvelous dish called
Kleftiko, which is lamb that has been wrapped in foil and slow-baked for 6
hours; it is by far some of the best lamb that I have ever tasted. We
tried Pastitsio Tsoukas: ground beef tossed with pasta and topped with
homemade Béchamel sauce, a Vegetarian Mousakas (the vegetarian version of
the Pastitsio): layers of eggplant, potatoes and zucchini with homemade
béchamel sauce, Afelia: Pork marinated in red wine and dry coriander, and
its vegetarian cousin Manitaria Afelia, which is Portabella mushrooms
marinated the same way and served over a bed of vegetables. In this
group, the Afelia was my absolute favorite... but the Pastitsio was
incredibly tasty and was Lauren's favorite. There was also Sautéed Spinach in olive oil and a
bit of garlic, and Briami: Braised zucchini, red and green peppers, onions
and potatoes.
There is a plethora of poultry, pasta,
other meat and seafood dishes - many of which are vegetarian - that we did
not try on this particular occasion. Did I mention the bottle of
dynamite red wine that accompanied dinner (Domaine Nicolaides)? By
this time, I was stuffed to the max and not sure if I could even move myself
away from the table. In fact, if I were of Greek-Cypriot heritage, I
believe that I would be about 60 pounds heavier... with a large smile on my
face. But apparently we were not finished yet. We had to
try the Baklavas.. And while we were at it, Daktyla, Galaktoboureke and some
rice pudding were added, along with a small glass of what Gina called
Commander's Wine - a fine port-like wine to accompany our dessert. Oh,
my. What a way to finish an excellent dinner!
I have been seduced by Venus herself and
have enjoyed every single minute of it. Dinner felt like a festival
and I will be waiting for the day that I can return and try some of the
other dishes on what is a very extensive menu. If you are like me and
can't decide what you would like for dinner, try a "Meze" - a mixture of
traditional Cypriot dishes from the menu. We had a group of people and
most of what we tried was served almost family style. It was a great
way to sample such excellent cuisine. Try Venus Greek-Cypriot Cuisine
for a buffet lunch, or dinner. Or plan to have an event catered, or
make plans to attend for a special party. There is live piano music
three nights per week and live Greek music every Saturday night.
I am somewhat disappointed that I have
waited so long to try food of this type... but I am far more excited that my
first taste was of such a fine quality. Now the bar is set. The
service is excellent, the atmosphere casual and the food and flavors...
simply outstanding. A very special thanks to the chef for his
tremendous creations on the menu. I give Venus Greek-Cypriot Cuisine
Four Zins and highly recommend that you put it at the top of your list of
places to dine! Yamas!

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
|
|