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My mother had a phrase that she used when referring to something that she really liked and thought was really classy: "Simple Elegance".  And I would hope that she wouldn't mind that I not only borrow it, but apply it to the restaurant at which Lauren and I had dinner just the other night.  Everything there -- from the decor to the table setting to the menu to the entrées -- oozed simple elegance like sweet chocolate ganache from a triple-chocolate molten cake.  But I am getting ahead of myself...

We had made an earlier-than-normal reservation since we had also made a trip into Chicago, and Maijean was only slightly out of our way for the return trip home.  Strangely enough, I had never been to Clarendon Hills and the place was a bit difficult to find.  The key, our waiter told us later, was to exit on 55th Street and from there it is an easy find. 

Upon entering, one can feel the classic French Bistro warmth and also sense the subtle Art Nouveau influences that are part of the signature of the restaurant -- pronounced may-ZHEEN (named for the chef-owner's late grandmother).  The fireplace, dark wood of the bar, the white tablecloths, the soothing and gentle warm glow of the ochre-orange upholstery and walls touched with dark cobalt blue, all added both beauty and serenity to Maijean.  We were greeted by a smiling hostess and escorted to our table next to the front floor-to-ceiling windows that overlooked an outdoor patio now closed for the season.  The table was adorned austerely: fresh orchids, polished-metal salt and pepper shakers, starched white napkins and a candle were all that graced the surface... again the simple elegance.

Our waiter -- dressed in a black tie, starched white shirt, black pants and white apron -- introduced himself and asked if he could take an order for something to drink.  Immediately thereafter, a bus person appeared with stemmed water goblets and filled them with ice water.  The menus were presented and it was clear that we would need extra time to make our decisions... for good reason. 

Appetizers included tantalizing tidbits like Mussels Marniere (mussels steamed in white wine with cream and parsley), Escargots, Seared Scallops (crisp potato, petit salad and wild mushroom beurre blanc), and Carpaccio of Salmon (cucumber, radish salad and chile broth) while entrees included savory selections such as Seared Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast (cranberry-bacon corn bread, orange sauce), a generous portion of Steak Frite (grilled 12-oz prime rib eye), Roasted Salmon (herb blinis, hearts of palm and hollandaise) and Blanquette de Veau (traditional veal stew with mushrooms, carrots and pearl onions served over penne pasta).  These items, mind you, were supplemented by an entire additional menu that consisted of specials for the day, which only served to lengthen the list of already difficult choices -- and I have not even mentioned the soups, salads and sides...

As Lauren sipped her chardonnay and I enjoyed my Grey Goose on the rocks, we did finally decide on the Seared Scallops and a trio of Pates for appetizers; first courses included a bowl of French Onion Gratinée for Lauren and a Hearts of Palm salad for me.  Lauren then selected the special Sautéed Stripe Bass with Bok Choy and wild mushroom beurre blanc and I ordered the special Cassoulet -- a traditional casserole of duck confit, lamb shank, garlic sausage, boudin blanc and northern beans.

I have often said that "the devil is in the details."  This is because I am a fanatic about details.  One of the things that I continually remarked to Lauren about on this occasion was the issue of details -- here the incredible details of flavor -- which literally jumped off the plate at me.  Some examples?  The thinly sliced and crispy fried potato that surrounded the baby frisée salad on the scallop appetizer: perfectly assembled with an excellent vinaigrette.  The perfectly cut, triangular slices of pate arranged in just the right way and accompanied by two kinds of mustard that were separate in flavor but very distinct.  The beurre blanc -- on both the scallops and the bass -- creamy smooth, yet perfectly light and rich with chanterelles, the flavor distinctly different and delightful, yet complimenting so well the white, flakey and tender bass that rested on bright green Bok Choy.  The goat cheese dollops on the salad were bright and tart, the flavor totally separate from the delicious and petite Hazel nuts and the texture of the hearts of palm.  The cassoulet, filled with the separate flavors of the duck, lamb (which fell off the bone), sausage and beans....  I believe that it is indeed a rare thing to find so many flavors occurring at the same table at the same time... and be able to keep them so separate and distinct.  Chef Tilkian has done a masterful job of that.

Maijean is truly a comfortable venue with all of the details in place... in the restaurant, in the kitchen and on the tables.  Hats off to Nadia Tilkian, a master at presenting the simple elegance of country French cuisine in a classically prepared manner.  I only wish that I had saved some room for dessert.  There was Petit Flourless Chocolate Cake with berry sorbet and a trio of sauces, Chocolate-Hazelnut Mousse with strawberry coulis and seasonal sorbet and Warm Chestnut Cake with coffee crème anglaise and coffee ice cream, among others.  My choice would have been the Granny Smith Apple Tart with raisins and Danish blue cheese ice cream -- you know how much I love Bleu Cheese!

With seating for about eighty diners, the restaurant is the perfect size.  I really loved the simple elegance and outstanding cuisine of Maijean and I give it Four-and-a-Half Zins.  I promise that you will enjoy your experience there and suggest you make a reservation soon.

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com