I had known that the previous occupants of the building had departed perhaps a year ago and I had received an e-mail telling of the new Mexican restaurant, but I had no clue as to what to expect.  The place is very small yet still intimate; there is room for perhaps twenty diners at most.  The seating is close but not cramped and the walls are adorned with chic and modern art and sculptures.  Table tops are paper covered but have white cloths underneath, and white votive candles burning in clear and very clean containers rest on the table.  Nearby are tiny, square salt and pepper shakers with chrome tops -- also very clean.  Silverware is wrapped neatly in cloth napkins.

Great timing.  A deuce has just become available and Lauren and I are seated immediately, very near to a smallish bar just outside the kitchen where the sound of a blender will not be heard; the owner is acting as bartender and hand-shaking the blended drinks.  A very polite waiter dressed in black approaches our table, smiles and, with a very heavy Spanish accent asks if we would care for something to drink.  Lauren chooses a margarita (I forgot the name) and I opt for a shot of Cuervo 1800 that is accompanied by something called Sangrita -- almost like a spicy tomato juice.  The margarita is akin to a "Topolo" variety with loads of fresh lime juice and incredible flavor.  My shot-glass of Sangrita has a touch of heat and is almost as good as Lauren's margarita.  It is a great aperitif for the tequila.

The menu is nicely limited, but literally brimming with inventive choices that make deciding a herculean task; I have not seen such interesting selections in a very long time.  My eyes though, are drawn to the bottom of the page and the fine print there that proudly proclaims: "All items are prepared fresh to order, we use the highest quality products and ancient techniques to prepare our salsas."  Worries about the poor day, along with any remnants of a bad attitude, were suddenly swept away.  There were more important things at hand... like what to select from the menu.

Munching on some freshly-made tortilla chips and spicy dipping sauce, we made the decision to try the Ceviche: fish of the day (tilapia), lime, extra virgin olive oil, serrano, tomato and onion -- $7.95 as a starter, as we contemplated the other delights on the menu.  The Ceviche came -- as did all the dishes that evening -- beautifully and imaginatively plated.  It was nestled among interesting greens and accompanied by a small porcelain dish of (I think) chile ancho sauce that added a slow burn to the tasty morsels.  We also succumbed to a Cazuelita (casserole) of Champinones: wild mushrooms, chile de arbol, garlic, onion, crema fresca, over a bed of melted chihuahua cheese -- $5.95.  Our final choice was a taco order called Pastor: Chile ancho and guajillo marinated pork, cilantro, onion, grilled pineapple, chile morita salsa -- $8.95.  The dish consisted of four small corn tortillas, filled with fiery pork and kissed with a sliver of pineapple, snuggled one next to another on a long rectangular white plate with a small dish of dipping sauce... m-m-m-m-m!

Bien Trucha -- which actually means "Good Trout" (go figure) -- may be a small and somewhat unlikely setting for incredibly good Mexican food, but that's exactly what owner Ricardo García-Rubio serves up.  The dishes are all imaginative and invoke mouth-watering images; no disappointment is anywhere to be found when the plates arrive either.  The heat provided by the peppers is easy to handle and the flavors outstanding.  There are many items than continue to call for my return to Bien Trucha, and I will definitely answer that call.  There are so many other items I would like to try: Crema de Chile Poblana Sopa, Chorizo Cazuelita, Tacos Camaron, Tacos Arrachera, Tortas De Lujo, Tortas Deseada... all magnificamente, I am certain!

I may be going way out on a limb here... but this may possibly be the best Mexican restaurant I have visited since my dinner at Topolobampo.  Obviously not quite in the same class, but incredibly impressive nonetheless, and certainly a style with which even Rick Bayless would be impressed.  I am almost afraid to tell anyone about it, for fear that I will never again find a seat upon my return...  So don't tell anyone about this fantastic little Mexican eatery in Geneva.  Bien Trucha certainly earns a Four-and-a-Half Zin rating and a place at the very top of your "gotta go there now" list!!

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