|







More about Geneva, Illinois
More Geneva Reviews




















More Illinois Reviews






























 |
Citizen Kane Restaurant ReviewNote:
Citizen Kane moved from its location in the old Geneva Theater to the the
digs formerly occupied by Isabella Estiatorio
(just across the street from Citizen Kane) not long after Isabella's closed;
its Head Chef Sean Eastwood had, shortly before that time, departed for the
warmer climes of first San Diego and now Mountain View, CA. Not long
thereafter, Citizen Kane also closed its doors. The owners of Urban
Grille (west State Street in Geneva) then opened up a new, high-end venue
there called Enye, which quickly failed due to lack of support from diners.
The same owners renamed and reopened the doors to what is now called Table
38. My, but restaurants come and go so quickly around here...
Underneath a vintage theater marquee
that now only announces Geneva events resides an upscale eatery that has
been open for just over a year. Occupying a space in the old Fargo building
that has, at various times over the years, been home to the Geneva Theater
and at least two other pub-style venues, Citizen Kane presents itself as a
breath of fresh air. With its fairly austere interior of muted
khaki-colored walls, oak-topped tables with only salt, pepper and
cloth-wrapped napkins, casual ambience is what makes this an immediately
inviting place to stop – even if it is only for a beverage and some
conversation while seated at a very nice and fully-stocked oak bar.
I have visited on several occasions and sampled appetizers, cocktails and the relaxed
atmosphere but never the entrees of Chef Richard Fields. After
receiving several e-mails that included positive comments, I decided
that it was time for Lauren and me to stop in for an “official”
visit.
Located in the heart of downtown Geneva, Citizen Kane prides itself on a menu that
includes a great selection of starters, salads, sandwiches and entrees,
incorporating always-fresh ingredients. All items seem to have their own
unique and Fields-style signature that tends to send one’s taste buds toward
the spicier side of the spectrum. Starters include Seared Ahi Tuna
on sesame flatbread with wasabi cream and tamari sauce, Crab Cakes
served with blue cheese slaw & tartar sauce… which don’t include in the
description the additional zing that accompanies the tasty cakes. Other
examples that exhibit a zesty zeal include a lunch selection of Grilled
Jerk Chicken Sandwich – a marinated 6 oz. chicken breast with roasted
red peppers, lettuce, tomatoes and basil aioli and a dinner entrée of
Creole Meatloaf with Andouille Sausage with Creole spices, onions
& peppers with a jalapeno brown sauce. The menu isn’t all heat; numerous
other selections exist that will tingle and tantalize your taste buds with
milder herbs and spices while palpitating your palate.
I sipped on a Grey Goose as we browsed the menu, trying to determine where our hunger would lead us. Lauren
decided to try one of the evening’s specials: Vegetable Lasagna,
accompanied by a beet salad and a glass of tart and crisp Viognier. My
decision was difficult because I was torn between meat and fish. The
Creole Meatloaf was really tempting (and quite good, I have been told),
as was the Citizen Kane Pub Steak – sliced hanger steak marinated in
dark beer, soy sauce and herbs, served with caramelized onions in a wild
mushroom brown sauce… and the Grilled Halibut Steak – an 8 oz. filet
seasoned with olive oil, rosemary, lemon & white wine, topped with lemon
butter sauce. Even the half-pound Citizen Kane Burger would have
done the trick. In the end however, it was the Grilled Halibut that
won out for me.
Lauren’s salad was fresh and delightful: tender leaf lettuce varieties topped with pecans and
beet slices, intermingled with bits of goat cheese and drizzled with
a bright vinaigrette dressing. The lasagna was loaded with
vegetables and surrounded by a dark red and herb-infused marinara in
which an abundance of caraway seeds tended to overpower the veggies
and steal the show. My halibut was done perfectly, had a marvelous
and mild flavor and was accompanied by freshly sautéed vegetables
and crispy sweet potato fries – some of the best I have had. Even
though Lauren didn’t quite finish her meal, I judged the portion
sizes to be just right. The plates were heated, the plating and
presentation were nicely done, and the prices were reasonable.
Service at Citizen Kane has always been quite good; our server on
this particular occasion seemed new – needing to occasionally
consult her notes – but this did not detract from the meal or the
experience.
My only real concern is the acoustics in Citizen Kane. High ceilings, coupled with a hard floor and walls, create a
sort of sound box effect that tends to accentuate and reinforce any sound –
be it conversation, clanging of plates or any other sort of noise. When the
restaurant is even half full, the noise level of the diners is amplified to
an almost uncomfortable level; I am hopeful that an inexpensive piece or two
of sound-deadening material can be added to the ceiling at some point to
ameliorate a problem that only gets exacerbated by the occasional
entertainment there.
In all, I think that the owners of Citizen Kane have done a really fine job in putting together their vision.
All the right pieces are in place, and from what I can tell, things are
getting better all the time. An imaginative chef creating freshly-prepared
and well-plated meals, good service and acceptable price points will always
go a long way toward attracting and maintaining a loyal and growing group of
patrons. I give Citizen Kane Three-and-a-Half Zins. If you haven’t been
there yet… you should definitely make a plan to go!

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
|
|