When it comes to sushi... well, I may not be anything even close to an expert, but I do know that after having eaten sushi in many restaurants and in many different places, I think that I can at least do darn well at judging good sushi.  And when the subject of that tasty morsel came up the other night when Lauren and I were trying to figure out a place to go for dinner, the result was a place in Geneva that has, oddly, opened and closed... and then reopened again -- all within roughly the past year.  Not sure of the circumstances surrounding that scenario, I didn't care as long as the food and service were good.

Matsuri Japanese Restaurant is located about a block or less from the train station in Geneva, on Third Street in part of what is collectively referred to as Dodson Place.  A smallish venue, the inside is rather austere; a sushi bar is placed in a far corner and the seating -- about a half-dozen booths and perhaps the same number of tables -- is comfortably spaced.  Tables are bare-topped with only water glasses, a set of chopsticks (silverware was not available on the table, but I assumed I could have asked for and received it) tucked into a paper napkin, and little else that I can recall save one table tent advertising wine and another showing varieties of sushi and sashimi.  There were only two other occupied tables, although two more parties arrived during the course of our dinner.

Our waitress arrived and queried as to whether we would like something to drink.  Lauren requested a small hot sake and I a cold one; we both enjoyed the dry and soothing beverage as we checked out the items on the menu.  A half-dozen or so reasonably-priced dinner entrees included chicken and steak teriyaki and chicken and steak teriyaki karashi yaki, as well as a shrimp and veggie tempura; there were five different combination teriyaki dinner selections too.  All dinner choices were accompanied by an included green salad, miso soup and steamed rice.  Fifteen different appetizers also graced the menu as did a fairly extensive selection of sushi and sashimi.

We decided to try the Shumai -- steaming hot shrimp dumplings -- and Baked Green Mussel -- delicate and beautifully prepared & plated mussels served on the mussel shell and topped with roe.  Both were excellent, although Lauren seemed to prefer the Shumai, while I was partial to the Mussels.  Our dinner selections consisted of two items, a Sapporo Crunch Roll (made with salmon) and a Crazy Roll (made with "super-white" tuna and salmon), both of which were cut into about eight pieces.  Had I been paying more attention, I would have noticed that the two were fairly similar in makeup and instead ordered a second item that offered more variety.  And since we usually share our choices so that we can get a better idea of tastes and plating, we didn't get the range of flavors that were available had were ordered differently.  Of course, this is just another reason to return!

Neither roll was truly crunchy, though I didn't think either was meant to be.  The outside of both was coated with a sort of bread crumb mix, which gave a slightly different texture and feel to the rice that encased the salmon and tuna.  The pickled ginger on the plate was spicy and refreshing and the bright green wasabi had the familiar and zesty bite.  Both rolls had a healthy amount of ultra-fresh fish and an excellent flavor.  I never did quite figure out the "crazy" part of the Crazy Roll; I liked it nonetheless.

There are good things to be said about Matsuri.  The prices seemed reasonable and the service was good.  The sushi was very good and plating was quite eye-appealing.  Unless sushi is fading as a dining choice -- which I tend to doubt -- I have no explanation for the small dinner crowd that evening.  Although I would have preferred to have had cloth napkins and perhaps a candle on the table, the lack of those amenities were definitely not deal-breakers.  It appeared as if perhaps the owners were the ones behind the sushi bar; they were smiling and friendly and seemed to know a number of the patrons that evening.

I am still waiting for the Japanese restaurant that plays real Japanese music -- as opposed to elevator or other Western fare...  Having said that, I do feel that  Matsuri Japanese Restaurant is a fine little venue serving very good quality sushi and sashimi.  If you have not yet paid a visit, I recommend that you put it on your list of places to try -- after all, you don't have to love sushi to eat there... there are lots of alternative choices that are fully cooked!  I give Matsuri Three-and-a-half Zins. 

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com