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Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar
Restaurant Review
It has been a very long dry spell when it comes to restaurants which I not only enjoyed, but would have
been willing to recommend. Although it seemed to make sense to me that
things would be different during our two-year-long struggle with the
economy, all I saw was venues that cut corners and offered poor service.
I experienced far less in terms of food and service than one would have expected, given that wallets have
been locked shut by folks anxious about jobs, mortgages and an uncertain
future... But I am very happy to report that Lauren and I just had an
incredibly memorable evening at the above-mentioned steakhouse; perhaps the
dry spell has ended!
It may not seem entirely fair to classify the experience as a reviewable dining event, as the evening was the
result of an invitation to a menu tasting; I can hear the objections
already: that's not fair, they knew you were coming! But as I have
noted on numerous occasions over the past years, "the devil is always in the
details" and the details are what generally impress me the most. This
becomes especially important when a restaurant enters the "chain" arena.
But believe me when I tell you that Fleming's is as far from any concept you
may have of
a restaurant chain as La Jolla, California is from Providence, Rhode
Island... and Fleming's has a restaurant in
both of those locations -- as
well as 62 others in a total of 28 states, at least as of this writing. And the
details... aahhh, it was in fact the well-attended details of the evening that were
quite impressive.
To begin with, the moment we entered the
restaurant, we were greeted warmly and with a genuine smile by one of the
hostesses there. Every employee we see is dressed appropriately in
black slacks, a white shirt and a red apron -- all clean and pressed.
The ambient lighting almost demands that one relax, and the dark wood of the
walls and bar-top harkens of board-room importance but offer a
casually-elegant dining atmosphere; the place certainly doesn't feel
as large as the 14,000 square foot, 350-seat dining room might suggest.
We are led to one of two private dining rooms that can accommodate
approximately 30 to 60 guests as the occasion would demand. Our room
was awash in a golden glow from three large inverted half-orbs of mica
suspended from sturdy chains, as well as from candles in small glass
containers. As other members of the evening's dinner party arrived, a
special drink -- the Stoli Bombshell -- was shaken (not stirred) and served
to each guest. (During the month of October, 100% of the sales for
each Stoli Bombshell will benefit the Avon Breast Cancer Crusade)
We were also to have at our disposal a sommelier, one very knowledgeable
and likeable Wayne who would explain the evening's pairings of fine wines
with the numerous tastings selected for us, as well as Chef Ryan Charbowski
who, on behalf of Chef Roger Abuan and the rest of the kitchen staff, would
provide us with the explanations of ingredients and preparation styles of
the evening's selections. Operating Partner Kelly Beyer also stopped in
periodically to chat with the diners and make sure that all was well in both
food and service.
As a first course, tender butter lettuce that gently cradled lump crab,
avocado, bacon, egg. tomato and chives dabbed with a House Thousand-Island
Vinaigrette -- aka Lump Crab Louis Wraps -- started the
evening. The sweetness was perfectly paired and gently offset by a
mildly tart 2007 Santa Barbara County Sanford Chardonnay; the
resulting olfactory sensation of bright sunshine on the dry hillside grasses
near the ocean was unmistakable. Roasted Mushroom Ravioli
provided the follow-up: slowly-roasted Portobello and Shitake mushrooms,
nestled inside hand-made raviolis delivered to one's palate the sense and
taste of rich soil and damp woods; drizzled over the top was an intense and
velvety-smooth porcini butter sauce -- almost caramel-like in its sweetness
-- a perfect partner for the hints of blueberries and dark fruit that
emanated from the mellow 2005 Mendocino County Meyer Syrah.
Course Two was an interesting duo of white and flaky Alaskan Rock
Petrale Sole topped with crab beignets and a smooth lemon-butter
sauce -- accompanied by a 2009 Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc from
Casablanca Valley, Chile -- and a marvelously tender peppercorn-topped
Prime New York Strip steak enhanced by Fleming's spicy and
proprietary "F-17" steak sauce -- paired with a mildly oaky but very big
2006 Napa Valley Frog's Leap Merlot. Vegetable side dishes
offered were tender, Roasted Baby Carrots tossed with golden
raisins and toasted California mission almonds and Sautéed French
Green Beans, shitake mushrooms and porcini essence.
Just when I thought that it couldn't get any better, several creations
from Fleming's new
Fall Prix Fixe Menu (an Exceptional 3-Course Dinner offering two
innovative appetizers and two hearty entrées to choose from, plus a special
Fleming’s dessert) were escorted to the tables. I thought perhaps they
were just eye-candy... but I was very wrong, as we were invited to taste any
of the items that we wished! There were the entree choices classic
Veal Osso Bucco, and a hearty Ciopino (an all-time favorite of mine),
appetizer representative Oysters Rockefeller and dessert sample
Dark Chocolate Cheese Cake.
The evening's tasting extravaganza wound its way to conclusion with the
arrival of Course Three: an insanely rich Chocolate Lava Cake -- topped with vanilla ice
cream and chopped pistachios -- and the sampling of a brilliant Crème Brulee
-- Creamy Tahitian vanilla bean custard (perfection resulting from the
lightly-scorched crispy crust on top), served with fresh seasonal berries.
Both were masterfully done (the Crème Brulee was actually the first version
I have ever tried that I liked!) and provided a proper exclamation point to
the tastings.
As I mentioned at the start, aside from the joys of
excellent food, the joy was in the details of the evening: everything was
perfectly-cooked, well-plated, sauced and garnished; the items were
well-paired with wines (did I mention that Fleming's has 100 wines, offered
by the bottle, glass or taste?), and the young chef that explained
the dishes to us obviously took great pride in his trade as well as his
descriptions -- not to mention his joy in watching us enjoy his creations.
Fleming's has paid attention to many details that most restaurants overlook
as unimportant to customers' ultimate satisfaction; there is a standard of
culinary excellence here not found elsewhere and it made me smile to know
that some places still care about fine dining experiences. Hats off to
Fleming's!
Speaking of which... happily, I did not see inappropriately-dressed diners
at Fleming's and not a single baseball cap. This may have been icing
on my (Chocolate Lava) cake, and then again, maybe the "new normal" I have heard so much
about lately just may include a rediscovered desire to dress appropriately for dinner...
In closing, although Fleming's may be on the pricier side, it is definitely worth the experience and I am headed back soon -- I
just have to have an entire portion of Osso Bucco for myself; I know that Joseph Insalago would definitely have approved of the
fork-tender tender veal and complex flavors that can only result from a long period of slow
roasting. Even though they did know I was coming, I can easily give the
Lincolnshire Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar Four-and-a-Half Zins and strongly urge you to treat
yourself to an excellent dining experience at your earliest possible convenience!
Your Table is Waiting...

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
Photos courtesy Kurman Communications
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