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Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar
Restaurant Review
 
Restaurant Information Rating View Rating Key
Fleming's Steakhouse
960 Milwaukee Ave
Lincolnshire, IL 60069
(847) 793-0333


Review posted 10/22/10

It has been a very long dry spell when it comes to restaurants which I not only enjoyed, but would have been willing to recommend.  Although it seemed to make sense to me that things would be different during our two-year-long struggle with the economy, all I saw was venues that cut corners and offered poor service.   I experienced far less in terms of food and service than one would have expected, given that wallets have been locked shut by folks anxious about jobs, mortgages and an uncertain future...  But I am very happy to report that Lauren and I just had an incredibly memorable evening at the above-mentioned steakhouse; perhaps the dry spell has ended!

It may not seem entirely fair to classify the experience as a reviewable dining event, as the evening was the result of an invitation to a menu tasting; I can hear the objections already: that's not fair, they knew you were coming!  But as I have noted on numerous occasions over the past years, "the devil is always in the details" and the details are what generally impress me the most.  This becomes especially important when a restaurant enters the "chain" arena.  But believe me when I tell you that Fleming's is as far from any concept you may have of a restaurant chain as La Jolla, California is from Providence, Rhode Island... and Fleming's has a restaurant in both of those locations -- as well as 62 others in a total of 28 states, at least as of this writing.  And the details... aahhh, it was in fact the well-attended details of the evening that were quite impressive.

To begin with, the moment we entered the restaurant, we were greeted warmly and with a genuine smile by one of the hostesses there.  Every employee we see is dressed appropriately in black slacks, a white shirt and a red apron -- all clean and pressed.  The ambient lighting almost demands that one relax, and the dark wood of the walls and bar-top harkens of board-room importance but offer a casually-elegant dining atmosphere; the place certainly doesn't feel as large as the 14,000 square foot, 350-seat dining room might suggest.  We are led to one of two private dining rooms that can accommodate approximately 30 to 60 guests as the occasion would demand.  Our room was awash in a golden glow from three large inverted half-orbs of mica suspended from sturdy chains, as well as from candles in small glass containers.  As other members of the evening's dinner party arrived, a special drink -- the Stoli Bombshell -- was shaken (not stirred) and served to each guest.  (During the month of October, 100% of the sales for each Stoli Bombshell will benefit the Avon Breast Cancer Crusade) 

We were also to have at our disposal a sommelier, one very knowledgeable and likeable Wayne who would explain the evening's pairings of fine wines with the numerous tastings selected for us, as well as Chef Ryan Charbowski who, on behalf of Chef Roger Abuan and the rest of the kitchen staff, would provide us with the explanations of ingredients and preparation styles of the evening's selections.  Operating Partner Kelly Beyer also stopped in periodically to chat with the diners and make sure that all was well in both food and service.

As a first course, tender butter lettuce that gently cradled lump crab, avocado, bacon, egg. tomato and chives dabbed with a House Thousand-Island Vinaigrette -- aka Lump Crab Louis Wraps -- started the evening.  The sweetness was perfectly paired and gently offset by a mildly tart 2007 Santa Barbara County Sanford Chardonnay; the resulting olfactory sensation of bright sunshine on the dry hillside grasses near the ocean was unmistakable.  Roasted Mushroom Ravioli provided the follow-up: slowly-roasted Portobello and Shitake mushrooms, nestled inside hand-made raviolis delivered to one's palate the sense and taste of rich soil and damp woods; drizzled over the top was an intense and velvety-smooth porcini butter sauce -- almost caramel-like in its sweetness -- a perfect partner for the hints of blueberries and dark fruit that emanated from the mellow 2005 Mendocino County Meyer Syrah.

Course Two was an interesting duo of white and flaky Alaskan Rock Petrale Sole topped with crab beignets and a smooth lemon-butter sauce -- accompanied by a 2009 Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc from Casablanca Valley, Chile -- and a marvelously tender peppercorn-topped Prime New York Strip steak enhanced by Fleming's spicy and proprietary "F-17" steak sauce -- paired with a mildly oaky but very big 2006 Napa Valley Frog's Leap Merlot.  Vegetable side dishes offered were tender, Roasted Baby Carrots tossed with golden raisins and toasted California mission almonds and Sautéed French Green Beans, shitake mushrooms and porcini essence.

Just when I thought that it couldn't get any better, several creations from Fleming's new Fall Prix Fixe Menu (an Exceptional 3-Course Dinner offering two innovative appetizers and two hearty entrées to choose from, plus a special Fleming’s dessert) were escorted to the tables.  I thought perhaps they were just eye-candy... but I was very wrong, as we were invited to taste any of the items that we wished!  There were the entree choices classic Veal Osso Bucco, and a hearty Ciopino (an all-time favorite of mine), appetizer representative Oysters Rockefeller and dessert sample Dark Chocolate Cheese Cake.

The evening's tasting extravaganza wound its way to conclusion with the arrival of Course Three: an insanely rich Chocolate Lava Cake -- topped with vanilla ice cream and chopped pistachios -- and the sampling of a brilliant Crème Brulee -- Creamy Tahitian vanilla bean custard (perfection resulting from the lightly-scorched crispy crust on top), served with fresh seasonal berries.  Both were masterfully done (the Crème Brulee was actually the first version I have ever tried that I liked!) and provided a proper exclamation point to the tastings.

As I mentioned at the start, aside from the joys of excellent food, the joy was in the details of the evening: everything was perfectly-cooked, well-plated, sauced and garnished; the items were well-paired with wines (did I mention that Fleming's has 100 wines, offered by the bottle, glass or taste?), and the young chef that explained the dishes to us obviously took great pride in his trade as well as his descriptions -- not to mention his joy in watching us enjoy his creations.  Fleming's has paid attention to many details that most restaurants overlook as unimportant to customers' ultimate satisfaction; there is a standard of culinary excellence here not found elsewhere and it made me smile to know that some places still care about fine dining experiences.  Hats off to Fleming's!

Speaking of which... happily, I did not see inappropriately-dressed diners at Fleming's and not a single baseball cap.  This may have been icing on my (Chocolate Lava) cake, and then again, maybe the "new normal" I have heard so much about lately just may include a rediscovered desire to dress appropriately for dinner... 

In closing, although Fleming's may be on the pricier side, it is definitely worth the experience and I am headed back soon -- I just have to have an entire portion of Osso Bucco for myself; I know that Joseph Insalago would definitely have approved of the fork-tender tender veal and complex flavors that can only result from a long period of slow roasting. Even though they did know I was coming, I can easily give the Lincolnshire Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar Four-and-a-Half Zins and strongly urge you to treat yourself to an excellent dining experience at your earliest possible convenience!     

Your Table is Waiting...


Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com

Photos courtesy Kurman Communications

 

 

 

 

 

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