Jason's Steakhouse
Restaurant Review
Nestled discreetly up against the mighty
Fox River, constructed in 1853 of area limestone and massive wooden posts
and beams inside, the once proud and stately Gray's Gristmill was completely
renovated as of 1998 and is now known as Jason's Steakhouse. I had
literally stumbled upon it in the summer of 2005 when I had the good fortune
to attend a wedding and reception there. The food was excellent -
especially for a wedding reception - and the place was oozing charisma.
It had been on my list of places to try ever since. I was almost
nervous with anticipation as Lauren and I ascended the front steps, for I
had heard good things about Jason's and I was this time bound and determined
to order a steak. In fact, I had already decided that I would begin a
comparison of local Steak Houses to see who had the best deal. Jason's
had the potential to be number one.
Something about the Midwest has never
changed since I once lived here as a child: the undeniable desire for a good
martini, tender steak, baked potato and a salad with Thousand Island
dressing. I have never been quite sure about that particular fatal
attraction, yet it did and still does exist - almost like an urban legend.
At this point in my life I can do without the potato, and I choose to
substitute Bleu Cheese for the Thousand Island dressing. But I must
admit, the rest still sounds pretty darn good to me, and I was ready to
partake! Unfortunately, it seems that were it not for bad luck, I may
not have any luck at all... Then again, it may have nothing to do with
luck - for it would seem that skill is more the question here. How
difficult can it be to properly grill a steak?
The dining room was austere yet warm and
inviting at the same time. Perhaps it was all the wood and stone, or
perhaps the black table cloths and napkins, heavy silverware and oil candle
on the table... maybe it was the combination, but the anticipation grew.
The Grey Goose ($7) on the rocks was a good-sized libation and Lauren's
Level vodka was served in an angle-stemmed up glass. Very classy -
albeit very pricey at $10. The many specials described were
mouth-watering and included both Blue Fin Tuna and Lamb Osso Bucco, either
of which would have been a great temptation on any other night. But I
was going to have a steak! (Dinners were described as being served
with whipped garlic potatoes, veggies and soup or salad, so keep that in
mind when considering entrée prices.) We had almost decided to forgo
an appetizer, but they too sounded excellent and we ordered the Baked Sonoma
Goat Cheese and Tomatoes ($6.95 - shallot compote with basil oil on
rosemary flatbread).
Actually, the Goat Cheese was not on the
dinner menu we were given. It was on a smaller version that I had
gotten earlier. When we asked about it, we were told that the menu had
"just changed today... but I'll ask the chef - maybe we still have some
left." Presently, the appetizer was served and was truly excellent.
It really didn't register then, but in the center of the dish was a small
scoop of salsa - not in the menu description - and it did not have the
described basil oil. For dinner I ordered the 8-oz. Filet ($24.95 -
roasted pearl onions, jicama relish and cognac sauce) - medium rare -
and asked for the Wedge ($3.95) with Bleu Cheese dressing as a substitute
for the house salad. Lauren had several choices, but finally decided
on the Veal Scaloppine ($18.95 - with lemon, capers and a bourbon sauce),
which sounded a bit strange with bourbon sauce, but different and very
likely a refreshingly different choice.
Everything was going along just fine...
until the dinners were served. Although the plate presentations were
interesting looking, they essentially consisted of the entrees being piled
atop spinach, which was piled atop the vegetables, which were piled atop the
potatoes. This I really didn't mind... too much, although the flavors
were not separate and distinct. However, my first cut into the filet
revealed a well-done steak instead of the medium rare one I had requested.
Lauren noticed that the veal in her entree had not been prepared as most
scaloppini dishes are; in the middle of the pile was another scoop of the
same spicy salsa that was in the appetizer! I have seen many
variations of Veal Scaloppini but never one that included salsa. It
was co-mingled with the capers and provided a very strange and mostly
unappealing flavor. (The sauce was thick and dark brown instead of
light and piquant and, upon examination and taste, was exactly the same as
the sauce on my steak.) When the server came to the table to ask how
things were and learned of my over-cooked steak she exclaimed: "I'm
surprised - the steaks are usually undercooked!" At this
point I'm wondering if any of the steaks get cooked correctly.
For the uninitiated, you now have a
pretty good idea of yet another reason that I do not generally order a steak
when I go out to eat. I now had the unpleasant dilemma of deciding
whether or not to succumb to the server's urging that I allow the chef to
cook another steak for me. Do I eat the over-cooked meat and try to
enjoy the meal - Lauren has not yet told me that she does not care at all
for the flavors on her plate - or roll the dice ? (At least the steak
I had on my plate was a tender one) Having worked in many kitchens and
having observed the reactions to returned plates, I was not really in favor
of sending the steak back. Yet I yielded, realizing that Lauren would
either finish her meal by the time my steak came out or, wanting to be
polite, would allow her meal get cold. Eight to nine minutes later,
another steak arrives and naturally is now undercooked and extremely rare.
It has been re-plated and looks nothing like the first. I take a bite
or two, notice (1) how rare my steak is, (2) that Lauren has not eaten any
more of her dinner and (3) discover she does not care for the salsa-caper
caper. A busboy asks if we would like to have the remainder of the meals
boxed and we politely say "yes please." We ask for the check, pay the
bill and the server bids us farewell, reminding us to "enjoy your lunch."
She obviously knew that neither of us had eaten much of our dinners.
By the way, upon arriving home, we discovered that the remains of both meals
had been shoveled into a single container - salsa and all.
In fairness to the server, she did bring
us a glass of wine "on the house... for the inconvenience." However,
it was a single glass of wine and when she arrived at the table with it she
sloshed half of it from the new glass directly into my wine glass and gave
the rest in the glass to Lauren. This was (A) True Showmanship or (B)
Tacky. You choose the correct answer. Thus far, my adventures
into having steak when I go out to eat have ended in two dismal failures
(see my review of FoxFire in Geneva). More importantly on this
evening, Jason's Steakhouse has been a major disappointment. So much
potential exists there. The location is tremendous, the building has
heaps of character and the menu has plenty of temptations with well-written
descriptions. The food just doesn't come out as described and is not
done well at all. One thing that I did not mention earlier: we arrived
at 7:15pm. There was only one other table there at the time; no one
else came for dinner that evening, at least while we were there. We left at
about 8:45. The emptiness of the restaurant tells a lot about a place.
and how difficult can it be to prepare two dinners on an evening when the
whole evening consists of a total of eight diners??
I give Jason's Steak House Three Zins.
On this particular evening, it was average fare... and that
is all. A well-known axiom states that "on any given night, anything
can happen." I am certainly hopeful that Jason's is generally much
better than our experience on that given night, and that our particular
dinners were unfortunate exceptions. As always, I welcome your
comments.

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com |
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