Sushi Yama Restaurant Review
*3-23-07 After a change in
management there, I was invited to re-review Sushi Yama. Although they
were unaware of the date of my visit, they did a fine job on the evening
when Lauren and I were there and the review (definitely out-of-date now)
posted below resulted. However, at least according to local resident A.S.,
Sushi Yama is apparently not the same place. Here is part of what a
recent e-mail stated:
"Based on your
positive review, my
wife and I took some
friends there
recently. What a
disappointment... a
cold, bare
atmosphere. Poor
service. Poor
cleanliness. Poor
food quality. To top
it all, they charged
my credit card more
than I signed for on
the bill."
A single e-mail may not be grounds to
shutter the place, but the brief description above is definitely reason to
at least reconsider a planned visit. I'm not sure how to alter the
Latin phrase to cover sushi, but apparently when it comes to Sushi Yama, it
would seem that caveat emptor just may apply...
Back in
March of '03, Lauren and I visited a little sushi place in St. Charles
called Sushi King. Recently, I received a tip that the place was under new
ownership – it seems that so many places are nowadays – and that perhaps I
should check it out once again. Lauren and I both have developed a fondness
for Japanese food in general and sushi in specific, and so it seemed like a
good idea to give it a look-see – especially after a long and frustrating
day. Perhaps some hot sake would shake out the cobwebs and send some
relaxing vibes through these tired bones…
It was
about 7:00 on a mid-week night and, stepping through
the door (and, by the way, the obnoxious strobe light in the entryway is now
gone…), things seemed pretty much the same as I had remembered them. The
physical plant was the same as far as I could tell – which was fine – I
thought nothing negative about the previous layout. However, had I
remembered the tatami
rooms at the front of the restaurant, I would have made a reservation; they
looked so inviting and intimate for an evening’s meal. Next time…
We were
greeted cordially and escorted to a table for two. The tables were all
clean and polished – the place had an austere, yet comfortable feel to it.
We were immediately approached and asked if we would care for something to
drink. Breaking our normal “routine”, we requested a large carafe of hot
sake and began to look at the menu and at the sushi offerings. As in most
sushi restaurants, the sushi/sashimi choices were many and choosing was
difficult. We weren’t what you might call ravenous, but we were very
hungry. What we decided to do was to get two sashimi items, and then order
several things from the menu – probably from the appetizer list. We chose a
House Roll ($4 – like a California Roll but with smoked salmon,
cucumber, avocado, masago and shrimp) and two pieces of Halibut ($6)
sashimi. Both were melt-in-your-mouth tender, fresh and tasty. The sake
was starting to tame the jangled nerves as we sipped our steaming Miso Soup
and selected two items from the appetizer portion of the menu: Tuna Dip
($7 – small, almost julienne pieces of chopped Ahi Tuna in a spicy caviar
sauce and served on a crisp chip) and Calamari Tempura ($6 – eight giant
rings of tender calamari, fried in an extremely light but crispy tempura
batter and served with a mildly spicy dipping sauce). The Tuna Dip was
incredibly good (could’ve made a meal out of it!), as was the Calamari.
We then
decided to have dinner instead of more ap’s – so much for our diets… Lauren
chose the Bento Box ($17 – salmon steak, shrimp and vegetable
tempura, a California roll and rice) and I chose the Chicken Teriyaki ($12 –
two chicken breasts cut into 8 small pieces atop a bed of sautéed onions and
served on a sizzling platter with a large portion of steamed rice). Both
dinners were served hot and the timing of their delivery was very good. The
tempura batter was – as it was on our previous visit – extremely light and
crunchy, there were two giant shrimp and plenty of veggies, and the portion
size of the dinner was more than ample. My chicken was a tad dry (as was
Lauren’s salmon) but not overly so, and the flavors were very good; the
portion size of my dinner was also more than ample. In fact, by this time,
both Lauren and I were sated to the max and asked to have the remaining
portions of our dinners boxed to take home.
Over
all, the evening was relaxing and very enjoyable. My preference would be to
lower the lighting levels just a bit to achieve a bit more ambience… other
than that, Sushi Yama is a place that you would definitely want to put on
your list of places to try. The prices are extremely reasonable (they have
come down since our last visit) and the experience was a pleasant one. A
gentleman who seemed as if he were probably an owner was present on our
visit; he was very cordial, accommodating and concerned with things being
“right”. This was a welcome relief when compared to some owners who, when
present, obviously are oblivious to what is happening and couldn’t seem to
care less.
I was
surprised at the relatively small number of diners we aw that evening, even
though it was a week night. Sushi Yama has many of the same things that
were present on our last visit. But more importantly, the service is still
good, the food great, and the value excellent. In general, the 3 ½ Zin
rating is not carved in stone… and could easily go to 4 Zins. I do believe
that if you like Japanese food in general and sushi in specific, you really
can’t go wrong at Sushi Yama.

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
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