A Tale of Two "Els"...
In a rare comparison of Mexican fare, I find myself wondering
why more often than not... it is so difficult to find
that rare instance of really good Mexican food. Lord knows that there
are plenty of these restaurants around -- I can name at least four without
even thinking about it. And I'm not sure of the reason, but Mexican is
one of my favorite "go-to" places when I don't feel like preparing a meal in
my own kitchen. Problem is, finding a really good venue is getting
increasingly more difficult. And in these difficult times when
gasoline prices are skyrocketing and food prices are getting more expensive
by the hour, one would think that restaurants would make every effort to
ensure that food and service are as close to impeccable as is possible, thus
keeping diners coming back.
In recent forays to two establishments specializing in Mexican fare -- El Zarape in Wheaton and
El Taco Grande on the west side of Batavia -- I discovered that the attitude at both seems to
be "mediocre will work just fine, thank you." First,
let's take a look at El Zarape...
A friend and his wife had wanted to take Lauren and me to dinner, and I had suggested a train ride and Mexican
dinner. El Zarape is a smallish venue that is just
across the street from the Metra station in Wheaton, making for very easy
access -- which is one of the reasons why we wanted to try it -- and
allowing for someone else to do the driving... We arrived at about
quarter past six, and although the place was not very busy at the time, we
were escorted to a table in a corner against the far back wall. Lively
conversation occupied the majority of the evening, and my friends seemed not
to mind the cramped quarters.
I will say that the service was very good; our waitress was all smiles and checked back regularly; our dinners
were brought to the table hot. However, the food was just OK. I
ordered the Chilaquiles with steak; the meat was as tough as shoe leather.
Lauren selected a combination of an Enchilada with chicken and a Tamale with
shredded pork; she reported both to be very "blah". Our friends said that
everything was "very good", but I know that could not have been the case.
Because of the occasion, I said nothing to the waitress or the management --
and that is truly my faux-pas. The food was not only not memorable but
easily forgettable. However, long story short... I will not
return. It is a really nice little place with SO much potential. But that is all -- just potential -- and Three Zins is the best it can
receive from me...
Note: El
Taco Grande Grande (de Don Manuel is now closed...)
Not more than a week later, I had still not sated my desire for some good Mexican food, so Lauren and I headed to
the other El: El Taco Grande on the west side of Batavia (just
a block east of Randall Road). My first meal several years ago at the
downtown location was outstanding and the prices were right. I have
not a clue as to what has taken place at the location that was originally
Don Manuel. Our meals could have been better made by a high school
home economics class. The beans were badly burned -- how that can
happen is beyond me -- and the burnt flavor inundated the entire portion.
The dinners were void of any real flavor -- let alone Mexican spices -- and almost cold; Lauren's margarita was just plain awful (it
was $8.95; a pitcher of them was tagged at a very hefty $26.95). What Mexican
restaurant worth its salt is unable to make a decent maggie? The salsa
was an exercise in extreme spice and the chips were a case study in oil.
It was understandable why the parking lot was empty when we arrived and in the same sad state of affairs when we
left. I said nothing to the management that night either -- shame on
me? -- but I will not return for another drubbing until I get rave reviews
from at least a dozen diners who tell me that I am way off the mark on this
one, and that El Taco Grande is a wonderful place to go. By the way, the prices
are in the same ball park as premium grade gasoline... but this El's engine
is only hitting on five of the necessary eight cylinders.
So there you have it... I guess that you can say that recently Lauren and I have gone straight to El -- twice -- and
didn't enjoy either trip. The pair of Els was a double-disappointment, and it
makes me wonder where the real Mexican fare can be found around here.
I give EL Taco a sad Two-and-a-Half Zins for their disappointing food,
service, margaritas and prices.

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
|